RV Pre-Purchase Inspection Checklist: What Inspectors Check

Water is behind many of the most expensive RV problems, and a lot of it gets in from the top. A good inspector gets on the roof and checks the surface for cracks, tears, soft areas and old patches. Then they check the sealant around every vent, skylight, antenna and ladder mount, and along the front and rear caps. Sealant that is cracked, lifted or pulling away is a likely leak point, even if no stain shows inside yet.

Along the sides, they sight down each wall at a low angle, looking for bubbles, waves or ripples in the fibreglass. Those can point to delamination, where the outer skin has let go of the structure behind it. They also check window and door frames, marker lights, storage doors and trim, because every opening cut into a wall is a place water can get in.

In Alberta, hail and strong sun are part of the picture. Dents on the roof, cracked vent lids and chalky, brittle sealant all tell you something about how the unit has been stored and looked after.

Inside, the inspector is mostly hunting for signs of past or present leaks. That means checking ceiling corners, around windows, inside cabinets and under beds for staining, wrinkled wall panels or a musty odour. A moisture meter helps find damp areas that look perfectly fine to the eye.

Floors get walked slowly and pressed on, especially around the entry door, in front of the fridge and shower, beside the toilet and in the slide-out corners. A floor that feels spongy or dips underfoot usually means the wood underneath has been wet for a while.

Slide-outs are run all the way out and back in. The inspector listens for grinding or binding, checks that the room moves evenly and seals tightly, and looks over the rubber seals for tears and flattened spots.

Every system should be run, not just looked at. The fridge, furnace, water heater, stove and air conditioner are each started and given enough time to prove they work. A furnace that lights and then shuts off, or a fridge that never gets cold, is something you want to know about before you buy.

The propane system is checked for leaks, along with the condition of the hoses, regulator and tank or cylinder mounts. On the electrical side, the inspector tests the unit on shore power and on battery, looks at the battery itself, confirms the converter is charging, and tries the outlets and lights. Smoke, carbon monoxide and propane detectors are tested too, and their expiry dates are checked.

Plumbing is filled and put under pressure. The water pump should build pressure and then shut off. If it keeps cycling with every tap closed, there may be a leak somewhere. Taps, the toilet, drains and tank valves all get operated. This matters in Alberta, where one missed winterizing can crack a fitting that stays hidden until the system is under pressure again.

Underneath, a good inspector looks over the frame for rust, cracks, bends and signs of past repair, then checks the underbelly, suspension and hitch or coupler. Tires are checked for age using the date code on the sidewall, plus cracking and uneven wear. Brakes, the breakaway switch and all the lights get tested. On a motorhome, the engine and chassis deserve their own mechanical check as well.

Signs of an old collision or structural repair deserve extra attention. Mismatched panels, fresh sealant in only one area, or doors and slide-outs that no longer sit square can all point to damage that was patched over instead of properly fixed.

If you are looking at an RV in or around Calgary, Horton RV Services inspects motorhomes and towables and will tell you plainly what the unit needs. Bring it in before you commit, especially if you have noticed soft floors, staining, wavy sidewalls or anything that hints at earlier damage. If the inspection does turn up structural trouble, we can explain what a proper repair would involve, so you can decide with clear information instead of a guess.